Catedral de San Salvador

Low slung but achieving an understated majesty nonetheless, this cathedral is built of light-coloured stone in the centre of the old town and features three finely carved portals. Unusually, the altar is enclosed at the front by an ornate Renaissance (the other three sides are Gothic) reja (filigree screen); another closes off the choir, while an earlier Gothic one, alive with vegetal motifs, screens a chapel behind the altar. The highlight, though, is the tiny, exquisite two-level Renaissance cloister on the street behind.