Film-maker Pedro Almodóvar once described this traditional bar and restaurant as ‘the best antidepressant’. Forget about the sit-down restaurant (though well regarded) and jam into the bar, shoulder-to-shoulder with the casual crowd, order a few Andalucian raciones off the menu and slosh them down with some gritty red or a caña (small glass of beer).
Enjoy the theatre in which the busy bartenders excel. Specialities include the tostas (toasts), bocaitos (small filled rolls) and the mussels with béchamel, canapés and fried fish.