In business since 1934 (and a tanning warehouse before that), Casa Alfonso is perfect for morning coffee, breakfast or tapas at the long marble bar. Wood-panelled and festooned with old photos, posters and swinging hams, it attracts a faithful local clientele at all hours for its flautas (thin filled baguettes), hams, cheeses, homemade desserts, and grilled-meat mains.
Consider rounding off with an alfonsito (miniature Irish coffee).