A tiny chocolate box of dark tinted Modernisme, the ‘Umbrella’ has been serving up drinks since the 1960s. But downstairs in the moody basement, travel from Modernisme to medieval amid 11th-century brick walls. Live bands – funk, soul, rock, blues, flamenco – regularly hold court on Friday and Saturday (check schedules online).
The turn-of-the-20th-century decor was transferred here from a shop knocked down elsewhere in the district and cobbled back together to create this cosy locale.