This year-round 87-bunk mountain refuge (2500m) has hot showers and home-cooked meals (breakfast €6.50, dinner €17.50; vegetarian available on request) – a just reward after a day of trekking the Sierra Nevada. From Capileira, it's a 9km hike (about four hours); from Trevélez it's 8.5km (also four hours); check the website for detailed directions. Book ahead by phone; cash only.
Refugio Poqueira
Las Alpujarras