Andalucía's first European Eco-Label hotel, this brilliantly restored 200-year-old house bordering a stream in the heart of Alájar runs on geothermal energy, rain harvesting and natural-cork insulation. The six comfortably rustic, airy rooms have big terraces, breakfast is homemade, and welcoming Spanish-English hosts Ángel and Lucy are experts on local hiking. The pool looks across the village to the peña.
The owners take pride in sharing Aracena's culture with guests, offering tastings of local olive oil, goat cheese and DOC Iberian ham (per person €40), along with walking holiday packages. Lucy makes excellent three-course dinners upon request (per person €25, plus €12 per bottle of wine).