Rooms are more modern than Golden Royal's classic old facade suggests, with memory-foam mattresses, a cream-and-gold colour scheme and reassuringly solid wooden furnishings. The warren-like layout betrays the building's long history but it's all been made elegant: wrought-iron railings, a light-flooded restaurant, mannered staff...a genteel experience indeed. There's also an excellent spa (two-hour entry €15).
Dogs are admitted for an extra €7.