STP's finest ecolodge is situated in a cliffside forest overlooking the sea. Nicely designed wooden bungalows offer plenty of space, light and dreamy views for two to four people. But it's hard to leave the dining area, with its coastal vista, convivial atmosphere and superb food (mains €6 to €12; visitors welcome). This is your launch pad for multiple itineraries, and great value.
For onsite exploration, a scenic descent leads you to a picturesque, if rough, stone beach. Local outings include a hike up a canal through caves to a waterfall (€25), longer national park hikes, and various roça (plantation) visits, including Santa Margarida, Vista Alegre and remote Binda, beyond the end of the EN-1. Mucumbli also arranges the classic Pico de São Tomė climb and the Volta a Ilha trek. Guides here are particularly good, and some speak English. Mountain bikes (€10 per day) can be rented (Mucumbli owner Tiziano Pisoni is the head of the Cycling Federation), offering the excellent opportunity to bike the EN-1 along the coast to its end. The entrance is located on the right 1km south of the fishing village of Neves.