It’s hard not to be impressed by the beautiful shíkùmén architecture of Zhang Garden, down Taixing Rd, off West Nanjing Rd and west of Shimen No 1 Rd. What you see here today – mainly shíkùmén housing, a mix of two- and three-bay villas with tall entryways, handsome windows and hanging balcony pavilions – is merely a small portion of the former site. What survives is a sign of the wealth of its pre-1949 occupants.
Formerly known as Arcadia Hall, the site was first built in 1878 by a European merchant as a fairground for foreigners. It was acquired in 1882 by Zhang Shuhe, a wealthy Wuxi businessman, who later opened it up to the public. There was a huge garden, a dance hall, meeting rooms, a theatre for Chinese opera, a photography studio, a teahouse and restaurants. It later served as a location for political meetings and rallies against the Qing government.
Today a single shíkùmén villa can house 20 or even 40 families, a mix of Shanghainese residents and migrant families from neighbouring provinces. It's easy to get lost in the alleys, but don't worry – you'll find your way back to the main boulevard eventually. In the evening, security guards for the nearby Tap House prevent visitors from wandering around the lanes; architecture fans should come in the morning before their shift starts.