Raya

Unrenovated, unpretentious and unbelievably good, charming Raya has been serving southern Thai fare for around 20 years. This two-storey Sino-Portuguese institution keeps things authentic and old-worldly with its jade-hued wood doors, original mosaic floors, gramophone, stained glass and shuttered windows. Standout house dishes include Phuketian mŏo hong (pepper-and-garlic-braised pork) and creamy crab-meat curry with coconut milk and rice noodles.