The buzzing Kokopo market is also well worth a stroll. It’s best on Saturday. Buai (betel nut) and its condiments, daka (mustard stick) and cumbung (mineral lime, which looks rather like cocaine in its little plastic wraps) account for half of the stalls, with produce such as fruit, vegetables, smoked fish and crabs accounting for the remainder. At the rear, tobacco growers sell dried leaves; home-made cigars wrapped with sticky tape at the mouth end.