With excellent birdwatching and good rainforest trails, the 994-sq-km Área Silvestre de Narganá is a wildlife reserve of species-rich primary forest ideally explored with a naturalist guide. It was created by the Guna indigenous community in 1987 primarily to try to keep away squatters. Access the reserve via the Interamericana, going via Chepo, and turning onto the road to Gardi (Cartí) at the El Llano turnoff. Go by sturdy 4WD with plenty of clearance.
This is the best place in Panama to spot the speckled antshrike, the black-headed ant thrush and the black-crowned antpitta.
Guided tours of the reserve are available through Panama City tour agencies, and Guna guide Igua Jiménez' Igua's Tours.