Awash in Caribbean style under a hush mountainside, this 'private retreat' (ie luxury resort) is laid-back and restful – don't expect beach parties. It's across the bay from Portobelo; that short distance keeps the Congo drumming at bay. Set around an infinity pool, four pastel cabins display exquisite, playful taste. The four large, art-filled villas sit tucked in the rainforest.
The grounds are enormous and interesting – the resort borders some of the Spanish ruins and was once the site of an American community brought to work on the Panama Canal. The housing has since been torn down, but some remnants of that time, including a dammed jungle reservoir, are fascinating. The dining room is an elaborate gazebo with glass walls and high-style Caribbean cooking (meals from US$70). Boats can taxi guests to remote beaches and fishing spots. The resort supports Fundación Bahía Portobelo, a community nonprofit promoting local art and culture.