Waterberg Wilderness occupies a vast private concession within the park and is a wonderful upmarket choice. The Rust family has painstakingly transformed the property (formerly a cattle farm) by repopulating game animals and allowing nature to return to its pregrazed state. The main lodge rests in a sun-drenched, jacaranda-strewn meadow at the end of a valley, where you’ll find red-sandstone chalets adorned with rich hardwood furniture.
But there's so much more here. Arrive before 3pm so as to join the rhino wildlife drives. It has other accommodation around the valley: Plateau Camp (a handful of more secluded chalets perched high on a rock terrace deeper in the concession), a tented camp (Meru-style safari tents facing down the valley with fine views), or you can pitch your own tent in the high-lying Andersson Camp.
To reach Waterberg Wilderness Lodge, take the D2512 gravel road around 100km from Otjiwarongo and follow the signs.