One of the most memorable lodging options south of Bagan is in Yengangyaung, some 30 miles north of Magwe. On a breezy hilltop overlooking a peaceful village, with the winding Ayeyarwady River in the distance, is a collection of handsomely designed bungalows with high ceilings, traditional weavings, and bamboo and stone details. The best have terraces with fine views.
A restaurant serves good curries and Western fare, and there's an attractive pool. Owner Eric Trutwein uses a portion of the guesthouse profits to fund a primary school he helped create. He can arrange boating or fishing trips on the river and other excursions. Free transport is available from Yengangyaung (pick-up from Bagan can also be arranged).