Oujda's medina is a great slice of tradition and modernity. It isn't large and appeals to local tastes, so don't expect to wade through touts selling carpets, lanterns and cushions. Most shops sell Moroccan clothing, jewellery and housewares. The area near Bab El Wahab, the eastern gate, is chock-full of food stalls selling seasonal produce (Oujda olives are well regarded).