Once a stern 17th-century Glaoui courthouse, this cosy pisé (rammed-earth) guesthouse has a sense of humour: upturned tajines serve as sinks and sewing-machine tables are repurposed as desks. Local iron-workers went wild decorating the en suites, though showers are poorly ventilated – a fine excuse to use the in-house hammam and massage room.
The lovely common areas (including a terrace overlooking the old quarters) add to the appeal.