Riad Helen

This stylish dar (traditional house), down funky Derb Arset Aouzal with its alley-wall mural art, is run by Parisians Celine and Fabian and offers six rooms. Inside there are lashings of white-trim, sea-green shuttered windows and French doors to keep things light and airy. Good-sized 1st-floor rooms are dressed in soft pastels, and there's one on the roof that can sleep three.