Forget pared-back minimalism: Dar Al Assad is a decadent dandy with sumptuous drapes and five jewel-coloured suites decorated with baroque chairs, arresting art and objets d'art. Unusually for a riad, the bathrooms are sleek and modern with big showers. Its French owners, Claude and Florence, live in Nice and at the time of writing were reconfiguring a couple of rooms as family suites.
It's relatively easy to find, off busy Derb Debachi.