Entered through the Bab Al Khemis, an imposing Hispano-Moorish structure, Larache's blue-and-white medina has changed little over the years. Mostly residential, it's arranged around the Zoco de la Alcaiceria, a colonnaded marketplace, where fresh produce and household goods are sold from open-fronted stores, wooden carts or straight off the cobbles. To the north is a maze of narrow lanes leading to the ruined Saadian Fortress. South, up the hill, is the handsome Music Conservatory and a scenic lookout.