At the eastern end of the valley in Tamartert, a trail zigzags among low-slung houses made of pisé (rammed earth); the triple-decker one is Douar Samra. Take the hewn stone steps to candlelit, wood-beamed guest rooms – one of which is in a tree house, which is a hit with child travellers.
Donkeys deliver luggage, there’s wi-fi in the organic garden, and aperitifs with sunsets on the terrace. The overall vibe is idyllic.