The hypnotic rhythms of Gnaoua may be associated with Essaouira but in the tiny enclave of Khamila, 6km south of Merzouga, people have stayed true to their sub-Saharan African culture and traditions. Dar Gnaoua is home to the Bambara group; just drop in, there are always musicians on hand to perform to an enthusiastic crowd. A CD (Dh100) makes a great souvenir.
It’s popular with tour groups but no less authentic for that. Owned and run by Hamad Mahjoubi, they also offer workshops in drumming and other musical instruments, weaving and cooking. The village is also home to notable gnaoua musicians Les Pigeons du Sable (The Desert Pigeons).