Seek out Brahim's place for fantastic ksar (fortified village) views from the rooftop terrace or the pisé (rammed-earth) salon, complemented by a set menu including salads, tajine and dessert. It's hidden in the backstreets of the new village – turn at the alley to the left of Bagdad Cafe and walk about 200m.
The same family also offers 10 pleasantly set rooms (doubles from Dh300) with fine views.