Hidden deep in a pine forest in the mountainous Khangai Nuruu National Park, this scenic monastery has become a major pilgrimage centre for Mongolians. Zanabazar founded the site in 1653 and lived, worked and meditated here for 30 years. The monastery was destroyed in 1937, but rebuilt with public funds in the early 1990s.
The monastery is situated at the top of Shireet Ulaan Uul, and Zanabazar apparently liked the unusual formation of the peak; the rocky outcrop looks like an enormous throne. It was here that Zanabazar created many of his best artistic endeavours, some of which can be found now in the Zanabazar Museum of Fine Arts in Ulaanbaatar.
Six or seven monks live here year-round, although sometimes more are here. Several pilgrimage sites have grown up around the temple and hermits’ caves, including one that is said to be Zanabazar’s boot imprint. There's another temple further up top, accessed past the two wells (signed with plaques) to the right of the temple; take the path past the makhala tree and round the rear up to Naga Temple. From here you can scramble up even further (though only males are permitted beyond this point), where there's an ovoo (shamanistic collection of stones) and incredible 360-degree panoramas.
The monastery is around 60km from Kharkhorin and is best reached with your own vehicle. Just follow the Orkhon Gol southwest for around 50km and turn north, up a side valley. This brings you to a couple of ger camps and the trailhead up the eastern side of the mountain. A good 4WD can drive the steep road up to the monastery in 20 minutes, but old Russian jeeps and vans can’t make the trip so you’ll have to walk (one hour) up the hill through the forest. From the car park it’s 3km. The route is obvious and in summer locals offer horse rides (T10,000 one way) to the top and back. It's a pleasant hike to the top, although swarms of flies can plague your ascent in summer; wrap a T-shirt, bandanna or towel around your head to keep them away.
Note that if you are coming from Orkhon Khürkhree, you will arrive at the western slope of the mountain and will end up taking a different trail to the top. From this side you’ll also find basic ger camps and herdsmen offering horse rides to the monastery.