Kok-Saray

Atmospheric multiroomed Kok-Saray, with carved-wood pillars, murals and an airy front terrace, serves the best Uzbek food in town (and in Kazakhstan, claim aficionados). Don’t miss the perfect plov (tashkentsky with white rice, andizhansky with black) or the superb samsas (samosas), which include a delicious pumpkin (s tykvoe) variety (in autumn only). You can’t miss its bright lights after dark.