Shinbe

In the warren of tiny restaurants called Ajikoji ('Flavour Alley') near Kii-Tanabe Station and the tourist-information center, this boisterous, family-run izakaya is famous for its ebi-dango (shrimp-paste balls) and ridiculously fresh fish that the chef himself might have just pulled in from nearby waters. Sit at the counter for lots of local colour and tons of fun.