Yanagi-ya

In a former Meiji-period curative spa, this intimate, dark-wood ryokan makes great use of Beppu's healing waters. Rooms (some with beds, others with futons; some with private facilities) are heated with onsen steam, and meals (Japanese or Italian) are cooked in onsen water (lunch ¥1400 to ¥2700, dinner from ¥5000); try cooking your own if you like.