The best place to orient yourself is Water Sq, at the east end of Duke St. Named for an old circular stone reservoir dating from 1798, the square (actually a triangle) has a fountain that replaced a system powered by water wheels that gave Falmouth running water before New York City. In the evening, the square really comes to life, with people limin' under the coconut trees, blaring reggae and delicious smells wafting from stalls.
Many of the wooden shop fronts in this area are attractively disheveled relics. In the 18th century, the shops were staffed by Jewish merchants; now the shop owners tend to be Jamaican Chinese.