It's worth getting lost in Colonnata's tangle of narrow lanes to find this family-run osteria, a local favourite for tasty lardo platters and imaginative pasta dishes. The penne con lardo e pesto d'ortica (penne with lardo and nettle pesto) is nothing short of superb. Kudos for the shaded summertime terrace wedged between old stone village houses and the hulk of marble mountain beyond.
Opening hours vary with the season and day's weather forecast; call ahead to check it's open and reserve a table.