Go early to score a table at this sprawling subterranean osteria, a famed destination for la cucina spezzina (La Spezia cooking). True to its name, this low-ceilinged space with vintage photos on the walls has been around since 1905, garnering five generations of fans for its hearty plates of codfish stew, fried anchovies, wild boar with polenta and other satisfying comfort fare.
Don't miss the veg-friendly mesciua, a tasty soup of mixed beans and grains.