Tiny wine bars dot Genoa's old city, although this one, under the arches by the port, is particularly characteristic and full of colourful locals. They are serious about their wine, though glasses hover around the €3 mark so it's a good place to get to know the Italian Riviera's unusual grapes.
Grab a cone of fried sardines from the nameless neighbouring friggitoria (takeaway shop selling deep-fried snacks) and make an afternoon of it.