Il Guscio

Exceptional dishes come out of the kitchen of this humble family-run gem in San Frediano, pleasantly off the beaten tourist track. Meat and fish get joint billing, with triumphs such as asparagus soufflé joining superbly executed mains (duck breast in orange sauce with caramelised shallots) on the short but sophisticated menu. Count €45 per kilogram for a traditional T-bone steak.