Pepèn

Parma


Prepare to battle the throngs of locals that crowd into this buzzing little sandwich shop, where panini get piled high with prosciutto di Parma, cheeses and countless other tasty ingredients. After seven decades, it's a dearly beloved Parma institution, though getting served can be an exercise in elbow-throwing frustration for non-Italian speakers.

Most popular are arrosto spaccaballe (roast pork, mayo, ketchup, tomato and spicy peperoncino – it means 'ball-busting roast!') and pesto di cavallo crudo (raw minced horse meat, lemon oil, salt, mayo and lettuce – we dare you!). Otherwise the carciofa savoury pie (artichoke hearts, parmigiano reggiano, ricotta and spinach) is a sublime vegetarian treat for a mere €2.50.