Hidden behind the cathedral is this local favourite, a modern bistro clinging to traditional ways. It's most famous for its horse meat (a Parma speciality), but you can also indulge in superb regional classics like tortelli di erbette (spinach-and-Parmesan-filled pasta pockets). The personable owner chats with locals while he slices plates of salumi misti (six varieties of cured Parma pork).
Unlike some touristy restaurants in the city centre, crowds and growth haven't yet overwhelmed it to the point of diminished quality. Don't forget to check the daily chalkboard specials, where you might find lamb or more daring proteins like kidneys. More salads than usual as well.