Osteria Quattro Angeli

Relax beneath fat, sausage-shaped salamis opposite the castle and demolish enormous portions of Ferrarese classics – there's a divine cappellacci di zucca al ragù (pumpkin-stuffed pasta with meat sauce) supplemented by cuts of local cured meat. Come 6pm, the tented section out front becomes a busy aperitivi bar, upping the noise levels and heightening the atmosphere.