Osteria del Ghetto

An understated jewel amid the winding streets of Ferrara's old Jewish ghetto, this osteria leads you through a nondescript downstairs bar up to a bright upstairs dining room embellished with striking modern murals. The excellent menu mixes Ferrara staples like cappellacci di zucca (hat-shaped pasta pouches filled with pumpkin and herbs) with a less-predictable fish menu.