One of a cluster of hotels along Via Capo, the Desiré is a top budget choice. It’s not so much the simple, sunny rooms (although they’re fine) or the facilities (a TV lounge and a panoramic roof terrace) as the relaxed atmosphere, friendly owner and beautiful views.
The lift down to the rocky beach below is a further plus, even if you still have to pay for the umbrellas and deckchairs (around €12).