Up a back lane from the waterfront, stylish Da Paolo has the town's best fish and seafood, all fresh off the boats and done in a variety of simple local styles. Order fish by the etto (100g) or plates of scampi or squid. Pastas include a fabulous fish ravioli.
The wine list is primarily white to match the seafood menu; it includes some great small Ligurian producers as well as a careful selection from Piedmont, Tuscany, Friuli and Alto Adige.