For pure soporific serenity, few budget guesthouses in Indonesia can beat Savana Cottages. Watch the swooping curlews and the tide retreating in the moonlight, while sipping an ice-cold beer or swinging from the hammock between sighing casuarina. Four simple, compact, fan-only, bamboo-and-wood rooms share mandi (ladle bath) bathrooms. Owners Lucy and Gerson are charming and helpful. Dinner is excellent.
Snorkelling gear can be rented (50,000Rp per day) and motorbikes hired (semi-auto/auto 50,000/75,000Rp per day).