Seltjarnarnes, 5km west of central Reykjavík, is a coastal area that feels a world away. The offshore island of Grótta boasts a red-and-white lighthouse and is a haven for birdwatching, with 106 visiting species. It is accessible at low tide, but is closed May to mid-July to protect nests. Get here along the pretty coastal path, popular with walkers, joggers and cyclists.
Waves rush in to the lava-strewn beach, the air has that salt-sea tang, fish-drying racks sit by the shore and Arctic terns scream overhead. There are also super views across the fjord to Mt Esja (909m).