One of the first guesthouses in the area and still one of the best, this place has all the details right, from big-enough showers to comfortable beds to soothing lighting. A few studios, with kitchenettes, are available too. Cosy traditional style is a given; breakfast is a bonanza of homemade preserves and pastry.
It's up at the top of the village; you can drive, but it takes a little nerve.