When pirates prowled the Dodecanese, this medieval settlement was Tilos’ main population centre. Its last inhabitants only left after WWII and it now stands empty, 45 minutes’ walk up from Livadia. In various states of ruin – one house opens as a music bar in summer – it’s a fascinating place to wander. Linger until the light fades and it turns downright eerie. If you can stay awake long enough, visit Mikro Horio nightclub, in the middle of the village.