This fortress 66km north of Tbilisi is a classic example of Georgian architecture, enhanced by its superb location overlooking the Zhinvali Reservoir. The fortress historically belonged to the eristavis (dukes) of Aragvi, who ruled as far as the Tergi valley from the 13th to 18th centuries, and is today a (very) popular stop on the Georgian Military Hwy.
Within the fortress are two 17th-century churches, the larger of which, the Assumption Church, is covered with wonderful stone carvings on its exteriror walls, including a large cross on each and various ancient scripts from all over the region, some of which have now totally disappeared. Inside the Assumption Church are a few vivid 17th- and 18th-century frescoes, including a Last Judgement on the south wall, although much of the church is bare due to a 19th-century fire. You can climb the tallest of the fortress towers for fine views, as well as walk along the battlements: it was here that the last defenders were killed in 1739 when a rival duke set fire to Ananuri and murdered the Aragvi eristavi’s family.