This café-tabac (cafe and tobacconist) is a pearl of a place where little has changed since 1870. Its nicotine-hued mirrored wall, moulded cornices and original bar make it part of a dying breed, but it epitomises the charm, glamour and romance of an old Paris everyone loves, including stallholders from the rue Mouffetard market who yo-yo in and out.
Contemporary photography and art adorns one wall. Lunch (two-course formule €16.50, plat du jour €13) is a busy, lively affair thanks to the kitchen's wholesome homemade cuisine. Live music quickens the pulse a couple of evenings a week.