Le Petit Château d'Eau

Scarcely changed in a century, with lemon- and lime-tiled walls, horseshoe-shaped zinc bar and burgundy banquettes, this neighbourhood treasure endures in defiance of the post-industrial co-working cafes that have sprung up around it. Classical cooking ranges from duck with honey sauce to beef entrecôte with roast garlic potatoes; you can just stop by for a morning coffee or afternoon kir.