With hip blue-and-white-tiled decor in happening SoPi (south Pigalle), Belle Maison is always busy. It's named after a small beach on Île d'Yeu, off France's Atlantic coast, where the owners holiday. Here, the kitchen cooks up scallops, oysters, cockles and other shellfish aplenty. Sophisticated mains include Earl Grey–marinated mullet and grilled mackerel with crispy wasabi root and miso caramel.
Desserts – such as roast sweet potato with mint oil, quince compote, a sweet orange biscuit and buckwheat ice cream – are equally inventive.