Abri

Montmartre & Northern Paris


It's no bigger than a shoebox and the decor is borderline nonexistent, but that's all part of the charm. Katsuaki Okiyama is a seriously talented chef with an artistic flair, and his surprise tasting menus (three courses at lunch, six at dinner) are exceptional. On Saturdays, a giant gourmet sandwich (€14) is all that's served for lunch. Reserve months in advance.

Expect the likes of cuttlefish with miso-marinated roast kale, mackerel with vanilla cauliflower crème, duck with celery root mash and olive oil emulsion and a chocolate mille-feuille with rosemary ice cream.