Ober Mamma

Queues stretch down the block from this authentic Italian trattoria where hams hang from the ceiling. Steaming pastas include pumpkin gnocchi with pecorino or smoked mozzarella, grilled courgette and basil; the pick of the wood-fired pizzas is the ricotta and buffalo mozzarella calzone. It doesn't take reservations; leave your number at the door and they'll phone when a table's free.