The former staff dining room of the city's winter circus, the 1852-built Cirque d’Hiver, is a historic monument with colourful clown-themed ceramics and mosaics, painted glass ceilings and its original zinc bar. Modern French cuisine spans line-caught whiting with whelks to Mesquer pigeon stuffed with anchovies. The pavement terrace gets packed out on sunny days.
If you don't snag a lunch or dinner reservation, return between mealtimes to admire the decor while you enjoy an early-morning café or a glass of vin naturel.