In such a classical part of Paris, 59 Rivoli is a bohemian breath of fresh air. Watch artists at work in the 30 ateliers (studios) spread over six floors of this long-abandoned bank building, now a legalised squat where some of Paris’ most creative talent works (but doesn’t live). The ground-floor gallery hosts a new exhibition every fortnight and free gigs, concerts and shows pack the place out at weekends.
Look for the sculpted façade festooned with drapes, banners and unconventional recycled piping above the shop fronts.